The preferred destination of partygoers and spa enthusiasts, Sharm el-Sheikh near the tip of Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula is a beachy paradise filled with high-end resorts, bars, and restaurants. It certainly has its charms. However, if your goal is to appreciate the natural beauty of Egypt’s coasts in places that range from slightly to far off the beaten sand path, there are some very worthy alternatives, all of which are accessible from major cities by car.
Swim season never ends in Egypt, thanks to its warm climate. That being said, the water temperature on Egypt’s Mediterranean can be cool (in the low 60s Fahrenheit) in mid-winter. It’s best to avoid going during Ramadan as some businesses and restaurants have limited daytime hours, although the beaches are decidedly less crowded. Springtime is ideal for a visit — just note that Ramadan starts in April this year.
Hurghada and the Giftun Islands: Sharm, but for locals
Hurghada, a large resort town falling smack dab on the center of the Red Sea’s western coast, is the most similar to Sharm on this list in terms of its party, resort vibe. But a few features make it perfect for travelers who want not only the opulent trappings of a posh resort town but also the chance to interact more with Egyptians and experience North African city life.
After a relaxing swim, venture out to El-Dahar Square and wander around the local souq, an open marketplace. Wooden crates and boxes are piled high with fresh and colorful produce like strawberries, oranges, tomatoes, jute leaves, and mint, and barrels are brimming with aromatic spices and dried hibiscus flowers. Locals rush around buying food for that night’s dinner, stopping only to chat with friends, their voices blending into the cacophony of shouted prices, calls to prayer, and car horns.
Lounging in the uninterrupted sunshine with a drink in hand is also an option. And if parlaying the day’s drinking into an evening of partying is an essential vacation element for you, Hurghada has that as well. A handful of nightclubs and bars line the main roads close to the resorts.
If you want to infuse adventure into your beach retreat, Giftun Islands National Park is a mere boat ride away. Your hotel can usually arrange a snorkel or even dive trip to the islands, or you can find a tour operator in town. The islands are ideal for observing the Red Sea’s magnificent marine life; their pristine waters are replete with corals, fish, turtles, starfish, and more.
Neither off the grid nor flooded with tourists, Marsa Matrouh is a port town on the Mediterranean Sea west of Alexandria with long stretches of sandy beach punctuated by caves and climbable outcroppings of eroded shoreline. Since most of Marsa Matrouh is insulated from rough waves (and the accompanying flurry of sediment) by a natural breakwater of rocks, the water is crystalline and provides high visibility for snorkelers.
Another bonus is that you can easily incorporate sightseeing into your itinerary while at Marsa Matrouh. The city is brimming with history, dating back at least to the time of Alexander the Great, when it was known as Paraitonion, and likely even earlier to the Rameside era in 1200 BC. Evidence for this can be found in the ruins of a temple to Ramses II.
There’s no shortage of ancient architecture below the waves too, the most prominent examples being the Drowned City of Caesar and Cleopatra’s Drowned Palace. Buried below the mercurial waters of the Mediterranean, the ruins themselves are too dangerous for vacationers to access, even equipped with scuba gear. Nevertheless, you can still interact with the memory of Ptolemaic Egypt. When the tide is low, and the sea is calm, walk to a section of Marsa Matrouh called Cleopatra’s Beach. There, two giant stones known as Cleopatra’s Bath rise up on the edge of a wide, semi-submerged outcropping. Local legend has it that the queen herself bathed in it with her lover Marc Anthony.
Egyptians have long seen the appeal of Marsa Matrouh. Almost every day, local teenagers can be seen scaling rocks and splashing about. Families, wading around on protrusions of rock jutting out from the shore, are happy to recommend the best places to swim or to point you in the direction of the caves, the walls of which are covered in old Coptic scrawlings.
While Ain Sokhna isn’t really known outside of Egypt, it deserves to be, given its affordable prices, clean beaches, and proximity to the famed Monastery of St. Anthony. Whereas most major Red Sea destinations are five to eight hours by car from Cairo, the drive to Ain Sokhna is a mere hour and a half.
Cinnamon-hued mountains with craggy peaks loom above the line of resorts, a stark contrast with the squishy, oatmeal-hued sand and endless aquamarine expanse of sea in the opposite direction. Like other Red Sea cities, Ain Sokhna’s waters are teeming with fish, vibrant corals, and crabs.
After you’ve had your fill of snorkeling, strolling on the beach, and lunching on denis (a tasty, local sea bream), take the time to visit the Monastery of St. Anthony. It was founded in 300 AD by the eponymous St. Anthony, one of the first Desert Fathers and the person credited with starting Christian monastic life. Below the floor of the church, which dates to the 12th century, are underground rooms used for study and prayer that are as old as the original monastery itself and which you can see when the monk pulls back the rug to reveal a glass floor. Equally impressive are the paintings of saints dating back to the seventh and eighth centuries.
Within the gates, a garden fed by a small but resilient spring sits in the center of architecture both ancient and new, the latter being the result of a massive restoration effort in the early 2000s. Bibliophiles will be delighted by the library, which contains one of the largest collections of Coptic manuscripts in Egypt. Ambitious travelers can depart from Cairo, enjoy the beach, and take a monk-guided tour of this historic site all in one day.
Nayzak beach: A shooting star
Photo: Mohamed A. El Gendy
Nayzak Beach is certainly the smallest beach on this list, but its size in no way diminishes its appeal. Located a short drive from the seaside town of Marsa Alam, two-thirds of the way down Egypt’s Red Sea coast, Nayzak is more accurately described as a natural pool within a beach. While it’s possible to take a taxi from the city, you’ll end up paying the driver to wait to take you back after your swim. There’s no way to hail a taxi from Nayzak. If you want a leisurely, unrushed stay, it’s better to rent a car from Marsa Alam.
From an elevated vantage point, Nayzak resembles an almond-shaped, aquamarine gem embedded in the rosy-brown stone of the coast. Locals went a different direction when nicknaming the swimming hole, settling on “shooting star” owing to their belief that a meteorite strike created it. While geologists agree that this is not the case, the moniker stuck.
Sheltered from hidden currents and powerful waves, Nayzak Beach is a safe place to float unperturbed and enjoy the warmth of the Red Sea. At its deepest, the pool is about 30-feet deep; at either tip, it’s possible to sit on the rock and sand below. The only downside to this literal slice of beachy paradise is the lack of facilities and shade. Plan on bringing what water, food, towels, and umbrellas you think you’ll need so that you won’t be forced to interrupt your sunbathing and diving with a drive back to Marsa Alam for supplies.
Wadi el-Gemal-Hamata Protected Area: Where dugong and camel meet
South of Marsa Alam, the Wadi el-Gemal-Hamata Protected Area affords visitors the chance to swim and to see some of Northeast Africa’s most impressive nature. In total, the area is home to an estimated 140 plant species and over 100 animal species, including the Nubian ibex, gazelle, hyrax, sand cat, and caracal.
Within the protected area, two islands in particular — Wadi el-Gemal and Wadi Qulaan — serve as great launching points for snorkeling or scuba diving. A series of tiny islands connected by shallow water and interspersed with mangroves make for a view reminiscent of a South Pacific vista. Venture underwater and you’ll find multicolored fish flitting about the abundant coral reefs. If you’re willing to travel a bit further offshore, you might see dolphins or even the dugong, an animal closely related to the manatee and the only surviving member of its family.
Compared to resort towns, the amenities in the protected area are somewhat limited though there is a visitor’s center. After a long day of swimming and hiking, hungry visitors who have booked inclusive tours can sit and eat with the Ababda bedouin tribe that lives in Wadi el-Gemal. If you’re feeling brave, you can even try camel cheese.
2020 travel trends show a return to the simplicity of our world, with an emphasis on sustainability, locally grown and made items, and origins. Well beyond Transylvania, Romania has outposts where traditionalism and traditions are flourishing. The Romanian spirit and the impact of other nations onto the country bordering the Carpathians, the Danube, and the Black Sea led to something that has been lost in many parts of our world: a genuine encounter. Each of these three regions in the country is unique in its history and offerings, but all are worth a visit.
Take in Romania’s deep history in the western border counties.
In the far west of Romania, the counties of Mehedinţi and Caraş-Severin border Oltenia and Banat, two of the country’s most historically significant regions. The Danube is the main source of waterlust here, winding through on its path from Germany to the Black Sea. The river and surrounding bodies of water are popular for birding as over 300 species live around the lakes, waterfalls, and other wild rivers found throughout the region.
But history takes center stage here. Hire a local guide for a trip to the Roman Emperor Trajan’s Bridge and to get out on the water through the Danube Gorges, something to remember not only for the sunrises and sunsets but also because it allows you to take in a good deal of history in a single day. Many history buffs are familiar with the bridge, designed by architect Apollodorus of Damascus. It was built between 103 and 105 AD in a second attempt by the Romans to conquer Dacia. This was an ancient territory mainly inhabited by the ancestors of the Romanian nation, holding similar boundaries to today’s established borders. One of the bridge’s feet can be found in Drobeta-Turnu Severin, the other one on the Serbian bank. It is one of the oldest such structures still somewhat intact.
About 45 minutes west, Tabula Traiana can be spotted on the Serbian side — a two-millennia-old plaque commemorating Trajan’s victory over the Dacians in 106 AD. It is said that Decebalus, who had successfully kept the Roman Empire away from Dacia since 88 AD, had committed suicide near here to avoid capture. He was Romania’s last ancient king, and his bravery and devotion are still praised by Romanians — his face was carved into stone in the town of Eselnita in 1994. It is the tallest rock-hewn sculpture in Europe and the third tallest in the world. You can see it from the road passing through Eselnita, but the water perspective is a more unique way to view the sculpture.
An hour to the north, Băile Herculane is a town that has just recently discovered some of the few Roman thermal systems in the world. Use a soak in the primeval thermal pots at resorts such as Afrodita as welcome relaxation after a day of river touring and sightseeing.
Experience unique, archaic traditions in Maramureş.
In northern Romania, Maramureş is known as the land of fairytales. Here, spot trees decorated with cooking pots while you roam around local villages — a red pot on top means that there’s a single woman to be married in the household. You’ll see residents wearing traditional outfits, perhaps carrying around bags made of wool en route to Sunday church.
One cold spring, while visiting Maramureş during Easter, the old ways of living caught me by surprise, even though I knew of them. In Surdeşti, a collection of rock formations are currently situated in the courtyard of a local family. My Tanti Rizuca passionately told us the legend of these structures through her strong accent and seemingly archaic words. The rocks, she said, are called Clăile de Piatră and resemble stacks of hay. Her legend has it that a group of peasants had committed the forbidden sin of working on a holiday. St. Peter, as punishment, turned all the hay that they had collected into stone, casting it permanently into place. She quickly added, looking at my partner, “I do hope the two of you are married. In my time, even a lousy goat was sold with deeds.”
Visiting a land that sticks so closely to its traditions is akin to taking a step back in time. Not everything is so outdated, however. Holidays — of which Christmas and Easter are prominent but a minor celebration is likely to include any time guests over — are always accompanied by a shot of horincă, a strong distilled spirit popular throughout Romania. It’s often as strong as 130 proof, though batches vary in potency. Even if you aren’t invited to a family’s home, you can taste the stuff poured straight from a traditional gate in the town of Sârbi. Guided tours of the Maramureş region range from single-day walking tours to full-week-plus all-inclusive experiences.
Most Romanians identify as Orthodox Christian or Roman Catholic and, as noted above, take their holidays quite seriously. At the beginning of December, there is a holiday beloved by all Romanians known as St. Nicholas. He comes bearing gifts on the evening of December 5, a full 19 days before St. Nick visits chimneys in the majority of the Christian world. In Maramureş, this is also the chance for carol singers to rehearse for their Christmas performances. Hazelnut rods full of buds are given to dear ones, representing purity of the soul, as well as power.
Church has played an important part in the lives and education of the people in Maramureş and many of the country’s rural counties. Throughout Maramureş, you’ll come across well-preserved wooden churches that encompass a protected UNESCO World Heritage site. Built in similar styles, though over multiple centuries, they have nowadays transformed from places of worship to prime attractions for visitors. Among the most popular is Ieud, which some Romanians claim was built in the 1300s but many historians suggest was actually constructed a few hundred years later. The Codex of Ieud, the oldest known document written in the Romanian language in 1391, was found here. Other UNESCO-listed churches worth a visit in Maramureş include the Rogoz, the Plopis, and the Desesti. Take them all in on a full-day guided tour for about $60.
“The Delta,” as Romanians endearingly call it, is a return to the simpler things that life has on offer. A land of extremes where water is queen, the Danube Delta blends the overwhelming and sometimes humid heat of the summer months with long, frozen winters that often isolate residents for days in a row, and sometimes even weeks.
Such circumstances made communities here develop differently from the rest of the country. By adding the Slavic influences of the neighbors, Lipovan customs complete the picture — and the menu, so to speak. Food is, after all, one of those cultural elements that helps define a nation. Vegetarians usually suffer in the Delta, but fish lovers are in their element and can have a taste of the specialties from the remotest of villages to the trendiest of Danube ports.
Borş de peşte, a fish soup, and storceag, a fish soup with sour cream, which are usually made from catfish or sturgeon, are commonly served as a first course. For the second course, you cannot go wrong with fried fish (you’ll often choose between catfish, pike, goldfish, and carp) served with polenta and garlic sauce, Romanian style. Winter visits to the Delta come coupled with saramură de crap, or carp brine.
There are also staple desserts to be licked off your fingers made from the basic ingredients of the area, such as pirozhki, fried buns stuffed with rice and raisins; vareniki, dumplings filled with sour cream and served with honey and walnuts; and the star of the dessert table: the Dobrujan pie. This classic is made with both cottage cheese and raisins in generous amounts and is named after the historical region hosting the Delta. To work off some of that gorging, you can explore the canals in a kayak or a boat, and there are even parts where you can drive or ride a bicycle.
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If it were possible to distill the essence of the Middle East and North Africa into a single experience, it would be a jaunt through the spice-ladened air of a busy souq. Souqs, collections of adjacent vendors often sprawled out over a plaza or multiple semi-enclosed streets, have served as the economic hubs of Middle Eastern metropolises since their first appearance, which some researchers contend was as early as 2,000 BC.
Despite the vast distances and imposing geographies separating them, the major cities in North Africa, the Levant, and the Gulf have historically been connected by an extensive web of trade routes, such as the King’s Highway and the Silk Road. Merchants used this infrastructure to transport incense, spices, fruits, nuts, gold, glassware, jewelry, cloth, dyes, timber, perfumes, and more from city to city.
These same traders required spaces where they could display and sell their products, and it was out of this need that the souq flourished. Some souqs were dedicated to one type of ware while others contained dozens of shops, each selling a specific category of product. Intangible but equally important, culture and knowledge were freely exchanged at souqs, forging a sense of interconnectedness among disparate peoples.
While the days when traders traveling with caravans would stop to unload and sell their products are gone, these ancient marketplaces have not been abandoned. Both locals and tourists continue to frequent souqs all across the world. Visiting all of them would be a challenge, so here are the ones whose history, architecture, surroundings, and products are the most extraordinary.
While better known as home to some of the world’s holiest and most contested religious sites, Jerusalem’s Old City is also one of the world’s most interesting souqs.
Rising on both sides of a labyrinth of narrow stone streets are buildings whose ground floors are occupied by shops, restaurants, bakeries, and butchers. Upper levels often serve as residences for the owners of the businesses below, as hostel rooms, or as quarters for a religious order. Over some stretches of the Old City, arched roofing shades shoppers while in others, balconies provide the only respite from the sun. There are four quarters in the Old City: Christian, Muslim, Armenian, and Jewish. Each has something to offer, so set aside time to explore all four.
People-watching is almost as entertaining as the contents of the souq itself. While navigating the narrow streets and dodging the occasional cart piled high with baked goods or dates, tourists hunt for pashmina scarves or bejeweled camel figurines to bring back home. Others stop to admire strands of colorful beads hung outside a shop’s entrance, or to inspect the beautiful ceramics for which the Armenians are famous. Hungry from hours of exploring, still others purchase and munch on zalabia, a delectable, curlicue-shaped fried dough saturated in honey and rose water.
Once you’ve explored the souq by foot, walk to the Austrian Hospice, which is past Damascus Gate on Via Dolorosa. Stop by the cafe for a refreshing iced coffee with whipped cream, and then head to the roof. For a small fee, you’ll gain access to the best vantage point in the city. The elevation affords a view of the striking gold and blues of the Dome of the Rock; the peaks of old churches; the worn roofs of apartment buildings; and the people scurrying in and out of shops and restaurants.
Of course, the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and the mosques on Temple Mount should not be missed. Since they’re located within the Old City, the souq leads up to their doorsteps. Lesser-known spots are hidden within the Holy City for those who don’t mind straying a little, and if you’re already exploring the souq, it would be a shame to skip them.
For example, few people know that it’s possible to do a little spelunking beneath the souq. Zedekiah’s Cave (also known as Solomon’s Quarries) lies just underneath the Muslim Quarter. Access to the cave is located just left of Damascus Gate, and entry is free. Even more fascinating, however, is a mysterious cistern that can only be reached through St. Helena’s Coptic Chapel, which itself is on the roof of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Pay a small entrance fee to the resident monk and ask to see Helena’s Well. He’ll direct you to a series of 51 steps leading down to a cavernous chamber containing a few feet of water.
Cairo, Egypt’s crowded capital, has long been a trade hub. Cairo’s position on the route of the pilgrimage to Mecca for thousands of African Muslims meant that there was a steady flow of people who wanted to stock up on food, clothing, and the like, and the souqs were there to fill their needs. Of those that have survived, the most memorable is Khan el-Khalili.
Although Khan el-Khalili’s existence can’t be traced back to the days of pharaonic Egypt, the presence of a market in the spot certainly isn’t new. The seeds of what would grow into the magnificent marketplace were planted in the 14th century, when Cairo was at the crossroads of trade routes stretching from the Indian Ocean to the Mediterranean. At that point in time, Khan el-Khalili looked more like a khan (an inn inside a caravanserai, which was a group of guest houses where traveling merchants would stay) than it did a souq. In 1511, Sultan Qansuh al-Ghuri destroyed the khan and replaced it with a more souq-like layout, replete with small hotels, warehouses, and shops. Dazzling, tall entrances to the souq were constructed around this time. Just one still stands today, and it’s definitely worth seeing as it is a prime example of Mamluk architecture. Its multicolored stone lobes are surrounded by honeycomb structures, intricate carvings of plants, elegant Arabic calligraphy, and complex geometric patterns.
By dint of its location, Cairo’s Khan el-Khalili overflowed with goods from Asia, Europe, and Africa. Today, the souq caters more toward tourists, but locals do still purchase jewelry there, as Khan el-Khalili contains the country’s largest gold and silver market. For tourists who aren’t looking for such luxuries, there’s a wide variety of cheaper jewelry on sale, as well as an assortment of figurines, papyrus art, coin belts for dancers, clothing, woven rugs, Ramadan lanterns, metal platters, instruments for making and serving coffee, hookahs, and leather slippers.
Bargaining is an essential part of the Khan el-Khalili experience. Some of the goods are cheap, some are artisan. Either way, you should expect that any initial price is a significant markup. Counter an offer with no more than 25 percent of the original price, and go from there. In most cases (except for very fine gold or silver), you shouldn’t pay any more than 40 percent of the starting price.
As exhilarating as haggling is, if you feel drained afterward and need a caffeine fix, you’re in luck. Squeezed inside one of Khan el-Khalili’s narrow alleys is the most famous cafe in Cairo: El Fishawy. Frequented by the likes of famed author and Nobel laureate Naguib Mahfouz, El Fishawy has always been at the heart of Egypt’s intellectual and artistic movements. Warm weather calls for one of the freshly squeezed juices (but hold off on the ice if you don’t want to get sick). If it’s nighttime and a bit nippy out, try a classic like hot mint tea, or be bold and ask for sahlab, a delicious dessert drink with a consistency slightly less viscous than pudding.
While Souq As-Salt is smaller than the fruit and vegetable market in the capital of Amman, it is, in many ways, more worthy of a visit. In fact, it is arguably Jordan’s last traditional souq. Located in a valley between the hills that make up the ancient town of As-Salt, this souq is primarily meant for locals, who come on a daily basis to purchase their produce. Walk along the main road and alleys that make up the souq and you’ll also encounter shoe cobblers and tailors, busy mending residents’ clothing and footwear.
The traditional dress of As-Salt, which includes non-native indigo-dyed fabric, attests to its importance as a locus of trade. Among other items, As-Salt was famous for raisins, which were traded with Jewish merchants in Tiberias for the purpose of making araq, the local anise-flavored liquor. Distributors from Nablus and Jerusalem used As-Salt as a launchpoint for trade to the east of the Jordan River. So significant was the town, in fact, that the Ottomans made it a regional capital.
One of the reasons that As-Salt’s souq is so special is that it resembles those in Syria, which are renowned for their beauty. Hammam Street, which runs through the heart of the souq, is lined with tall, arching wooden doors embedded into 150-year-old stone buildings. Come morning, as people begin to trickle past the tall clock tower in Al Ain Plaza at the souq’s entrance, shop proprietors swing open these massive doors, revealing an array of goods to tempt both people on a grocery run and the casual peruser.
If you plan to hike up the steep hill toward Al-Qala’a — a pink and white stone mosque from where there’s an unbeatable view of the city’s Ottoman architecture — you should first stock up on snacks from the souq. On display is every type of local fruit and vegetable you could imagine, and you can’t go wrong with apples or figs grown on a nearby farm. However, if you want to indulge in a truly authentic Jordanian culinary experience, you should partake in the locals’ fondness for eating raw green almonds soaked in salt water for a totally different take on the poplar nut. If that’s not appetizing enough, opt instead for salt-soaked green cherries, which are like miniature, super crunchy green apples.
Another feature of the souq that recommends itself to tourists is its proximity to two of the city’s biggest highlights: the Harmony Trail and the Abu Jaber House, also known as the Historic Old Salt Museum. The former is a trail that begins at the bottom of As-Salt (at the souq) and cuts a meandering path up the hill that ends at the mosque on the peak (Al-Qala’a). Along the way, the trail hits numerous heritage houses and religious sites, such as the centuries-old Al-Khader Church.
Just across from the entrance to the souq, the Historic Old Salt Museum provides tourists with an archaeological overview of the city’s history. The building itself is a remarkably intact example of Ottoman-era Nablusi architecture.
Once you’ve finished trekking up the hill and perusing the museum, stop back by the souq and pick up an edible souvenir. There are many spices and herbal teas on sale; tea lovers should try the chamomile, which is harvested nearby and hand-dried by the women selling it.
Syrian souqs are the most iconic in the world, and for good reasons. From delectable pistachio-covered desserts to expertly crafted walnut wood furniture inlaid with mother of pearl, everything on sale is amazing.
Sadly, the souqs of Aleppo were severely damaged in the civil war. While Damascene souqs did not escape unscathed, they’ve remained much more intact. Souq Al-Hamidiyah in Damascus has been restored to its pre-war beauty and is once again filled with locals and tourists.
All who approach are greeted by the remains of the Roman ruins of the Temple of Jupiter, its 40-foot-tall, slender pillars and graceful arches towering over the pedestrians entering the souq below.
Excavations hint at human activity in the environs as early as 10,000 BCE, but the Damascus that quickly became a commercial hub was founded in the third millennium BCE. Though the spot on which Souq Al-Hamidiyah stands has likely functioned as a marketplace since Roman times, the current structure is much younger, its construction having begun in 1780 during Sultan Hamid’s reign. Remaining work was finished in the 19th century.
One either side of the long path, Souq Al-Hamidiyah is packed with stall after stall of vendors hawking food, clothing, perfumes, jewelry, artisan soap, silk, metalwork, and more. Thanks to a 33-foot-tall metal arch that is interspersed with small round openings, just the right amount of light filters into the souq so that shoppers can see everything without overheating from the sun’s direct rays. Those with extra time can peel off and explore the adjacent souqs that branch off from Al-Hamidiyah and cater to more niche markets.
No visit to Al-Hamidiyah would be complete without trying ice cream from Bakdash. Bakdash is the most celebrated maker of Arabic booza, a type of ice cream that contains sahlab (ground orchid powder) and mastik (a plant resin) and is pounded and stretched in a cold freezer drum in order to achieve a stretchy consistency. The result is a thicker, denser, and extremely creamy ice cream. Employees use their wooden tools to pound and stretch the ice cream in front of hungry onlookers, topping the final creation off with a generous sprinkling of pistachios.
The end of the souq is just as impressive as its entrance. Al-Hamidiyah’s vaulted ceiling gives way to the wide open space of the Umayyad Mosque’s courtyard, believed by Syrians to be the resting place of John the Baptist’s severed head. Originally a Byzantine church, the structure is a gorgeous example of Islamic architecture, making expert use of space, natural light, and geometric motifs.
Arabic for “market neighborhood,” Houmt Souq lives up to its name; the entire city, which serves as the default capital of the Tunisian island of Djerba, is like an open-air market. Djerba’s medina (old city center) houses a semi-covered souq, but dispersed in the alleyways that radiate out from this focal point are plenty of additional shops. The entire arrangement creates the impression that much of the town is an extension of the souq.
The walk toward the souq in the medina is an experience in and of itself. Framing the streets are 15th-century buildings with whitewashed exteriors and turquoise-painted balconies that are covered in bougainvillea flowers. As you approach the commercial center, you’ll be met by Djerbians selling leather goods, woven palm baskets, caftans, rugs, pottery, fine jewelry, spices, and fish.
The fish market is perhaps the most famous section of Houmt Souq. Suntanned men auction off as-fresh-as-it-gets seafood. Purchase a fish (or an octopus, if that’s what you’re into) and bring it to a nearby restaurant — they’ll cook it for you on the spot. Once you’ve finished, stroll around the perimeter of the souq and pop into one of the local cafes for a drink.
Houmt Souq’s varied offerings reflect the diversity of Djerba’s inhabitants. The island is home to Tunisia’s largest Jewish population, who have lived on the island for at least 2,500 years. On the peripheries of the souq, the buildings are dotted with Jewish shops, whose proprietors use ancient techniques to fashion magnificent necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings, and other jewelry. The Ibadis, a Muslim sect that follow a movement that predates the Shia-Sunni split, have also found refuge in Djerba. Both minority groups live in harmony with the majority Sunni population. A visit to Houmt Souq is so much more than a fun shopping trip — it’s a chance to see an oasis of coexistence and multiculturalism.
Jemaa el-Fna is a cacophony of sights, sounds, and smells that is served up on a daily and nightly basis in Marrakech. Owing to its position on the western edge of the early Islamic world, Marrakech has always been a vital stop on trade routes and served as a gate to West Africa. Jemaa el-Fna has been in operation for at least a thousand years and was added to UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in recognition of its immense historical and cultural significance.
In Marrakech’s medina, on a large open plaza, performers weave in and out of the crowds and carts. Snake charmers deftly handle smooth serpents for tips from tourists; acrobats contort and flip through the air; and dancers whirl, their colorful clothing rising and cascading with their jumps.
Curls of intoxicating aromas emanate from the many food carts in the center of the square. All of the options are delicious, but to eat like a Moroccan, order a merguez sausage or a tagine dish. You’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to tagine, and you can’t go wrong. Either chicken, lamb, or fish is simmered in a medley of spices, often with nuts, a sweet fruit, or tomatoes. If you want to recreate the dish at home, buy a tagine from one of the pottery shops along the edge of the plaza.
Sounds are as pervasive as smells in Jemaa el-Fna. Visitors are constantly inundated by merchants vying for their attention, shouting out the latest deals. Storytellers and poets recount heroic tales and romantic lines, their words set against a background of nearby musicians beating drums and strumming an oud or a hajouj. Few people can say they’ve shopped for hand-woven rugs or locally sourced argan oil beauty products while enjoying what amounts to a free concert, but that’s exactly what you get at Jemaa el-Fna.
In addition to the standard souq wares, Jemaa el-Fna has unusual offerings. Interspersed around the square are booths where the brave can receive folk medicine and amateur dental care. Though it’s wise to avoid partaking in these particular experiences, they’re something that every visitor should see. A less risky alternative would be to purchase a temporary henna tattoo from one of the many artists.
As thrilling as Jemaa el-Fna is, hours of it can feel like an assault on the senses. On the perimeter of the souq there are plenty of buildings with upper floors that contain cafes. If you need a break, climb on up, sit on the balcony, and admire the souq from above.
Ask most people in the Middle East outside of the Gulf where Nizwa is and you’ll be met with a blank stare. That was not always the case, though. Oman — or what would become Oman — was always an important stop on sea trade routes that connected the powerful Indian and Persian empires to the Arabian Peninsula and Africa.
Muttrah Souq, located in Muscat, is technically older and perhaps more famous than Nizwa’s eponymous souq. However, Muttrah’s offerings are more commercial and distinctly less interesting than those of Nizwa’s souq. Since Nizwa is less than two hours from Muscat, it would be a missed opportunity to skip the visit.
Upon entering Nizwa, visitors are immediately treated to a lovely view: sandstone building upon sandstone building, surrounded by a fertile valley covered with palm trees. There’s enough dry land, though, that when it rains, Nizwa’s air is infused with an invigorating petrichor. To find Nizwa’s souq, just look for two salient structures: the Nizwa Fort, which stands next to the Friday Mosque’s large, motif-covered dome. Just below these two landmarks, to the southern side of the mosque, lies the souq.
While most of the souq was renovated into beautiful modern architecture that pays homage to ancient Oman, there is a more historical section that all visitors must explore: the old East Souq. It was left untouched during renovations, thus retaining its original earthen arches, carved wooden doors, and stone streets.
Like most souqs, Nizwa’s marketplace has an assortment of produce, meat, fish, traditional clothing, jewelry, and ornate coffee pots and kettles. What is most interesting is the more traditional offerings, like the Bahla pottery, beautiful in its simplicity, and the khanjars, which are j-shaped knives that Omani men wear tucked into leather belts.
When you’re ready to explore the rest of this town, be sure to buy some dates from the souq before you leave — Oman is famous for them.
The best possible way to learn, understand, and appreciate a new city is to dig into its history. And few cities in the United States have the historical chops of Detroit, which has been a major part of more US cultural movements than nearly any other city. Forget the things you thought you knew about Michigan’s largest city and go make new discoveries, partake in exciting historical moments, and explore beyond the guide books. This itinerary starts with destruction and finishes with an eye toward the future of one of the US’ greatest cities.
The abandoned Packard Auto Plant tells a story of Detroit’s reign as automotive capital.
The excitement was palpable in 1903 when the Packard Automotive Plant first opened its doors on East Grand Boulevard. Forty thousand workers streamed into the 3,500,000-square-foot plant to build the fiercely popular Packard vehicles and later, the Packard V-1650 Merlin engine which powered the Mustang fighter plane during World War II. By 1910, the Packard Car Company was the largest auto plant in the US and its innovative reinforced concrete factory construction became the standard for automobile factories across America. Throughout the following decades, however, increased competition and modernization streamlined — and eventually outsourced — much of the work in the automotive world. The plant closed in 1958, becoming the most visible symbol of the decline of Detroit’s automotive empire.
Parts of the property were used for various purposes by other companies until the late 1990s, when it was abandoned completely. As time passed and vandals pillaged, the plant fell into disarray. Shortly after our last visit, the vast concrete bridge over Grand Boulevard collapsed, and it really hit home that an important part of Detroit’s history had just disappeared. However, thanks to work from nonprofit group The Packard Project, the plant is (slowly) being revitalized.
You can visit the plant just off I-94 and though it’s a shell of its former self, you can still feel some of the magic of Detroit’s automotive glory days. It costs nothing to poke around and take photos, though be mindful of closures and “No Trespassing” signs along with exposed rebar and other hazards. Tour operator Pure Detroit occasionally offers guided tours of the premises for $40.
The abandoned Belle Isle Zoo is located on Belle Isle, an island popular with kayakers and beachgoers. The zoo opened in 1895 and was wildly popular for several decades. As time passed, the zoo began to suffer insurmountable budget issues and in 2002, it closed its doors for good. Sadly, the only reminder of the 150 animals that once roamed the grounds are numerous round huts with gray spiraling roofs. The graffiti-covered abandoned zoo is now almost hidden from viewers due to years of overgrowth and neglect but you can catch a glimpse of the animal enclosures, buildings, and metal entrance stanchions if you peek between the fences.
The island itself is also worth a visit to walk through Belle Isle Nature Center, and past that is the also-closed Belle Isle Aquarium. A bridge from downtown connects the city to the island, where as odd as it feels, you’ll look north at the Detroit skyline and south toward Windsor, Canada.
Check out the Riverfront for a taste of Detroit’s pride.
Detroit, despite a half-century of tough economics, has never lost its fierce pride. As a visitor, the best place to feel this passion is to wander Hart Plaza, located near Detroit’s Riverfront. A number of sites are worth stopping to see, beginning with “The Fist,” an imposing 8,000-pound, 24-foot-long bronze sculpture located in the center of Hart Plaza. This impactful artwork was created by Rolf Kriken as a monument to Joe Louis, the world heavyweight champion from 1937 to 1949. Joe Louis was largely regarded as the first African American to become a national athletic icon and became a symbol of the breaking of racial barriers in professional sports.
Then, walk over to “The Spirit of Detroit,” another impactful sculpture located about one block east of “The Fist,” on Jefferson Avenue. The striking bronze figure holds a golden sphere in one hand and a mother and child in the other. As a symbol of God and all human relationships, “The Spirit of Detroit” is emblazoned throughout the city and was featured in a past Super Bowl commercial. The statue is frequently dressed in sports jerseys to provide a little extra luck during games.
See how the city is becoming a model for smart development.
More than $5.1 billion in development projects were underway in Detroit in 2018, according to Michigan news site MLive. You can see the money at work all over the city, with a particular focus on downtown. The new growth spans from Woodward and Grand River avenues through Detroit’s Midtown and surrounding areas. Construction initiatives include Michigan’s tallest skyscraper, several hotels, residential spaces, eateries, a business school, parks, entertainment, and a healthcare facility. Many of these structures were developed in previously abandoned spaces and created thousands of new jobs for the city.
Detroiters are especially excited about the Henry Ford Pistons Performance Center, a $90 million state-of-the-art training center and corporate headquarters located on Amsterdam Street. The Performance Center is now the largest of its kind in the NBA and in addition to being the team’s practice facility, it houses a spacious weight room, full-service kitchen with personal chefs, and media rooms for the players. It is also a phenomenal opportunity for the community as the Performance Center’s grocery (Plum Market), fitness, and retail shops are open to the public.
Experience public art that reflects the soul of the city.
Those with an artistic mind will be profoundly drawn to Tyree Guyton’s famous multi award-winning outdoor art environment, the Heidelberg Project, located on Detroit’s East Side, opened in 1988. Guyton envisioned transforming the vacant lots and abandoned houses in the neighborhood where he once grew up. While wandering among the piles of lonely suitcases dreaming of adventures, you’ll pass a larger-than life Homer Simpson, dozens of forgotten shoes hanging on a fence, a shopping cart filled with old electronics, and a discarded doll that stares back with forlorn eyes. Perhaps the most eye-popping element of the environment, however, is the two-story house painted with huge, colorful polka dots. His vision of the Heidelberg Project is to inspire people to appreciate and use art to enrich their lives and to improve the social and economic health of the community. A sign reads, “We give paint brushes instead of guns.”
Tour an art project underneath an underpass and another celebrating Motown.
If you are traveling by car or foot near the ill-lit Cass Avenue railroad viaduct, you might question passing through it. Artists Becky Nix and Olek Zemplinski recognized the problem and in 2015 they won a proposal to create a more cheerful and welcoming experience for pedestrians and motorists crossing between the neighborhoods. Entitled “Reflector,” the project transformed the once foreboding and dark underpass into a sea of reflecting light as vehicle headlights shine on the 7,500 reflectors attached to the walls and ceiling.
Hitsville U.S.A., inside the Motown Museum, embodies Detroit’s history, love, and triumph all in one inspiring locale. The museum was founded by Esther Gordy Edwards in 1985 as a destination for music lovers across the US. You’ll stand on hallowed ground in Studio A where artists like the Supremes sang their famous song, “Stop in the Name of Love,” and other greats like The Temptations, Marvin Gaye, Stevie Wonder, Jackson 5, and Miracles and Marvelettes recorded their songs. Some of the original instruments and equipment used in some of Motown’s most famous recordings are still here to admire. No other record company in history created such an influence on popular music and culture with more than 180 number-one hit songs worldwide, which is even more inspiring when noting that Berry Gordy began Motown Records Corporation in 1959 with just $800.
Because Hitsville U.S.A. is such a hit with visitors, the museum is currently in the middle of a 50,000-square-foot expansion project that once completed will include interactive exhibits, performance theater, recording studios, a gift shop, and meeting spaces.
Many of us know the Holi festival as that event where you gather in huge crowds to throw powdered dye at each other, but it’s much more than that. Holi or Spring Festival is an important Hindu festival that marks the arrival of spring, and is celebrated all over the world. The festival’s roots lie in one Hindu legend that features the demon king Hiranyakashyap, who believed he was superior to all the gods. His son, Prahlad, rebelled and worshiped the god Vishnu, so Hiranyakashyap conspired to burn his son alive with the help of his sister Holika, supposedly immune to the flames. Prahlad was saved by Vishnu, while Holika burned to death. Holi, whose name comes from Holika, commemorates this legend by celebrating the triumph of good over evil. Although Holi originated in India, the festival has exploded in popularity and spread throughout the world. If you can’t make it to India for this colorful festival on March 9 and 10, here are some of the best places to celebrate Holi in 2020.
The world’s biggest Holi celebration isn’t even in India. Just outside the city of Spanish Fork, Utah, around 70,000 people regularly attend the Festival of Colors, which began back in 1989. The event was started by the local Hare Krishna temple, it still runs it to this day. The official website promises two days of lively, color-filled activities, including interactive dance, bands, DJs, yoga classes, vegan and vegetarian food, and good cheer. Live performances range from hip hop and soul to traditional Bhakti fusion dance and BollyPop. Environmentally friendly colors will be available for $3 per bag, and dust masks and bandanas will also be sold. The event takes place at the Sri Sri Radha Krishna Temple on Saturday March 28 from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, and March 29th from 11:00 AM to 4:00 PM. A multi-entry wristband costs $6.50, but there are various registration options available on the event’s website.
Mauritius is a small island nation east of Madagascar in the Indian Ocean, and it is home to a large Hindu presence. Most of the population of Mauritius, of which two-thirds are of Indian ancestry, considers itself Hindu — so Holi is widely celebrated on the island. In commemoration of Prahlad’s triumph over Hiranyakashipu and Holika, people build beach bonfires to kick off the celebration that includes folk singing and dancing. The next day, massive crowds descend upon the streets to throw handfuls of colored powder and water on each other. Beyond paint-slinging, participants exchange gifts with their loved ones and give gifts of sweets. This year, Mauritius is celebrating Holi from March 10.
3. Guyana
In Guyana the celebration goes by the name of Phagwah, because it was originally celebrated during the month of Phagun, the twelfth month of the Hindu calendar. On Basant Panchmi, 40 days before the start of the Hindu Festival of Colors, the Guyanese, many of them from Indian ancestry, plant a castor oil tree to honor Saraswati Devi, the goddess of knowledge. On Phagwah, a pyre is built and lit around the tree, and fire consumes it like it consumed the evil Holika. Guyanese also celebrate by throwing dye in the form of water and powder, as well as with processions, traditional songs called chowtals, and the exchange of foods like gulab jamun, gulgula, and pholourie.
In Nepal, Holi is known as Phagu Purnima. Although a predominantly Hindu nation, Nepal celebrates Holi somewhat differently than India, with the erection of the chir, a wooden pole decorated with colorful strings of cloth, in a public space one week prior to the start of the festival. In Kathmandu, the pole is set in Durbar Square, the center of the entire festival in the capital city. Throughout the course of the festival, participants throw powdered dyes and water balloons at each other, dance, pray, and exchange food. On the festival’s final day, the chir is burnt to ashes. This year, in most of Nepal, Holi will be celebrated on March 9 in the Hilly Regions — including Kathmandu and Pokhara — and March 10 in the Terai Regions.
5. Trinidad and Tobago
This Caribbean island has a large Indian diaspora, making Holi, or, Phagwah one of the country’s most important celebrations. Hindus are said to have brought the holiday to Trinidad and Tobago around 1845, after migrating there from Bihar, India. Since then the holiday has been observed every year, though now it’s celebrated by citizens of all faiths. Like everywhere else, Hindus in Trinidad ring in spring with a festival of colors, folk songs, and dance, though their celebrations feature music played on dholaks (two-headed hand drums) and manjeeras (hand cymbals). Trinidad is celebrating Holi on March 10 this year.
Although Holi is traditionally celebrated in March, that’s not stopping some countries from waiting until the weather warms up to commence the festivities. Berlin waits until the end of August to celebrate Holi. On August 29, huge crowds descend upon the Zentraler Festplatz in Berlin for the Holi Festival of Colors. Tickets cost approximately $22 though you can spend more for color packages and VIP experiences. If you can’t make it to Berlin, similar celebrations will be taking place all over Germany from early July to late August, so chances are you can always attend the one most convenient for you.
This Californian take on Holi combines the festival’s traditional, spiritual elements with more modern features that make you feel like you’re at one big party. Taking place at Riverside’s Martha McLean Park, the Holi Festival of Colors has live music, yoga, traditional dancing, Indian cuisine, and, of course, the throwing of colors. Yoga teachers will be present to get beginners on the right track. The festival will take place on Saturday, March 14 from 11:00 AM to 4:00 PM. A basic wristband costs $6.50 with other VIP options available, as well as those that include color packets.
A version of this article was previously published on March 6, 2019, and was updated on February 26, 2020, with more information.
